
Unsung Heroes
The Grilled Berkshire Pork Chop
As in-your-face as it is understated, this is Papi Chulo's battle rap to the self-important, starched-collar, farm-to-table attitudes going on in kitchens these days in regards to the humble American pork chop. For those of you who know Chef Roy by his loud, out-of-control flavor profiles and colorful sauces -- THIS IS NOT THAT. Oh yes, Papi Chulo can do subtle and does it well. A single, juicy Berkshire pork chop is grilled quickly over an open flame and develops a sizzling crust before it's laid out over a pool of beautiful olive oil and some creamy, fatty, pan-fried polenta cakes. Fresh segments of orange and pink grapefruit and charred, pickled scallions add a little sunlight and a little smoke. It's down home, it's elegant and it's a ferocious demonstration that there's no such f*cking thing as garnishes on a Roy Choi dinner plate.